![]() Pontiac sold this Vibe in base, AWD and GT trim levels. The Vibe was treated to distinct exterior styling, however, as well as its own trim levels and options. What this means for pre-owned models is that the Vibe has reliable Toyota genes and will likely provide years of dependable service. Produced for 2009-'10 only, the second-generation Pontiac Vibe is the corporate twin of the Toyota Matrix. Despite Pontiac's demise, the Vibe should enjoy a long life on the used-car market. The Vibe offered a lot of functionality for not a lot of money, and Toyota-sourced parts and powertrains counted as another point in its favor. Both are distinctive in appearance without looking overdone and resemble a sporty four-door hatchback rather than a frumpy station wagon. There were two generations of the Pontiac Vibe. The fact that the Vibe also got above-average fuel economy and had a solid reputation for reliability only added to its appeal among budget-minded consumers. A peppy powertrain was another welcome feature. Smart packaging is what made this small wagon desirable, as the Vibe combined clean styling, a roomy interior and exceptional utility under one affordably priced roof. Of all the compact cars that wore Pontiac badges, the Vibe was by far the best. It's gone now, though, and that's a real shame. They can easily affect 10%.The Pontiac Vibe began life as a Toyota Matrix twin and ended it as the answer to a trivia question: "What is the only Pontiac model to be produced for the 2010 model year?" That's right - while all other Pontiac models went the way of the dodo after GM's 2009 bankruptcy fiasco, the Vibe stuck around for a last hurrah. I think the best part to replace first is the O2 sensor. I would also check intake manifold leak on your car, if you have oil dripping in the front of the motor, its an easy sign. I read all of these tricks in my numbers are very poor compared to the people there, but seems on the good side in. because you have an AUTO I assume alot of my tactics can not be used. Short shift and lugging the motor actually increase mpg, the motor is most efficient at WOT, I read that throttle body plate is part of the problem. I actually log better mileage in constant traffic where all the cars are moving 60-70, there is a strip stream effect from what I read, I dont tail gate but there is enough turbulence from other cars that improve mpg. Even with an AUTO i think your figures are little too low. ![]() So that is why I average out all the fill ups and I still get 30-32 in Chicago driving. 5 gallon difference due to top off, vehicle load ( stuff in the trunk), level ground, different pump nozzle can all affect the amount of gas you get to put in. Yes I have a 5 speed and use a scan gauge to monitor my MPG, also use actual fill up gallons to calculate my MPG. Half a gallon can throw off your estimates. Good luck, but I would be surprised if you can see more than 30 MPG, given the roads you typically drive the most.Last ditch effort: How low do you let the fuel gauge get before crunching the numbers? Or do you have a separate fuel MPG gauge you're running? You might not be accounting for the actual fuel used. Have you had an alignment lately? If your tires have any sort of issues (not properly making smooth, straight contact with the road), that might be a source of inefficiency.Sounds like you've covered or will cover everything you possibly can. If you were in the 20-22 range, then I would worry. If you're hitting lights every other mile or so on "Nice longish roads with speed limits of: 45-55mph" this is the *average* mileage I would very much expect.The only way you're going to hit 30+ MPG consistently is spending more time on a highway without stops, at 60-65 MPH. I don't consider your numbers to be *that* bad. These steps may not do anything for my MPG, but should help the general health of my engine. I also will be cleaning my intake manifold (because there is a ton of oil in it) as well as replacing the intake manifold gasket with Toyota's newest version to avoid the all-too-common idle issues due to this faulty gasket. Having just bought my car at 70k without any service records, I've done or am planning to do a lot of the same as above. If that is mostly highway, something is wrong.If you still feel something is wrong, not knowing the mileage of your vehicle or maintenance history, I would:-check/replace PCV valve-check/replace air filter-replace the plugs (NGK or Denso Iridiums)-run a quality fuel system cleaner once or twice (like Techron)-clean the throttle body-clean the MAF and IAT sensors-along with VVT filter, clean and check operation of oil control valve itselfI am also working toward improving my MPG as much as possible. Any codes?How many miles?Has it been like this since you owned it or has it slowly declined?Any engine modifications?Along with what jake75 said, is that 24-26 city driving? Highway? Mixed?I think for mostly city driving 24-26 would be acceptable.
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